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SIHH 2019: A roundup

Some of our favourite watches at Geneva’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

Debonair’s deep dive into luxury watchmaking looks at some of the watches presented at the first big fair of the year — Geneva’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date

A decade after introducing the Zeitwerk, ALS has added a ring-shaped date display to its mechanical digital watch. The Zeitwerk Date comes in a 44.2mm white gold case with a grey dial, with a jumping date displaying the current date in red.

Bovet Virtuoso IX

Bovet’s throws everything but the kitchen sink into its latest — a double time zone that comes with a 10-day power reserve, big date and a flying tourbillon. The new calibre is housed in a 46.3mm diameter Fleurier Amadéo convertible case. It comes in white gold, red gold or platinum. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s fifth multi-axis tourbillon is also its smallest. It takes its name from its chime — the melody of Big Ben recreated with four sets of gongs and hammers activated in different sequences and different quantities at each quarter of the hour. Housed in a 43mm white gold case, it’s limited to 18 pieces.  

Richard Mille RM 16-01 Automatic Fraise

The watch forms part of the innovative watchmaker’s colourful Bonbon collection, and is adorned with 16 candies, juxtaposed against its grade 5 titanium baseplate and bridges. Featuring a skeletonised movement, it has a power reserve of 55 hours. It’s limited to 30 pieces. 

Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech

This 47mm piece celebrates Panerai’s partnership with the Italian Navy, driven home by its “Survival Instrument” designation. It’s crafted from carbotech, which is lighter than titanium yet stronger than stainless steel. The watch features the 6mm Panerai P.9010 calibre, and has a power reserve of 72 hours. 

Ulysse Nardin Freak X

At 43mm, this timepiece is smaller than its predecessors, Freak Vision and Freak Out, but is a more user-friendly model. It has no dial and no hands — the central bridge acts as a minute hand and one of the wheels indicates the hours. With this watch, Ulysse Nardin introduces the watch world to a new material — aeronautic-grade carbonium used for the fuselage and wings of the latest planes. 

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Another unique piece from the watchmaker’s artistic department, the watch revisits the Calibre 1731 QP movement, which combines a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar in a 42mm pink gold case. It boasts about 65 hours of power reserve, and is finished with a Mississippiensis alligator leather strap. 

Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain

Inventor watchmakers Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey built this white gold 33-piece limited edition watch around their exclusive balance-wheel system. It took a couple of years to achieve that feat, with the large balance wheel housed in a 39.6mm body — a first for the house known for its larger timepieces. 

Slim d’Hermès Carré de Rêve

Invoking a dreamy state, the watch features the in-house ultra-thin movement measuring a mere 2.6mm. However, the 39.5mm white gold watch boasts a power reserve of 42 hours. It’s limited to only six pieces. 

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph

Part of the Swiss watchmaker’s Star Legacy collection, Montblanc pays tribute to the French inventor of the inking chronograph with two new models, one in red gold and anthracite aesthetic, and the other in stainless-steel with an anthracite dial. It runs on the MB R200 in-house monopusher chronograph movement, which has a power reserve of 72 hours. An anthracite alligator strap finishes the look. 

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked

AP goes into the future by harnessing its past for its new Code 11.59 collection. Featuring a hand-wound tourbillon openworked movement, this 41mm model is presented in an 18-carat pink gold case contrasted with a dark openworked rhodium German silver mainplate and PVD bridges. It has a power reserve of 80 hours. 

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