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8 great perpetual calendar watches

One of horology’s most regarded complications, the perpetual calendar will display the correct date in perpetuity — well, until the year 2100 —  without having to be adjusted. Here are some of our favourite new models

Bovet Récital 21

With its writing-slope shaped case, this timepiece introduces the perpetual calendar with retrograde date into the Dimier Collection. The watchmakers have also developed a mechanism that slows down the indicator during its retrograde jump, a dramatic visual effect that can best be appreciated on the first day of the month. It has a power supply of five days.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “25th Anniversary”

The fourth model of the anniversary collection integrates a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon in the unique design of the Lange 1. A rotating peripheral ring indicates the month. Other functions include a leap year indicator and a moon-phase display. Nodding to its anniversary, the most complicated model of this watch family is presented in a 25-piece white-gold edition.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl

A product of the Maison’s Mains d’art team, this one-of-a-kind 18-carat rose gold timepiece is the result of 200 hours of meticulous craftsmanship. It’s inspired by China’s founding myths, and has two Tian Long dragons hand-crafted on the case. It runs on the in-house L.U.C 02.15-L movement, and has a power reserve of nine days. 

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar - Limited Edition

Presented at Baselworld 2018, we include this model as this year marks the 20th anniversary of the perpetual calendar in Glashütte Original’s Senator collection. Its skeletonised dial offers a view of the Calibre 36-02 automatic movement, which adds another visual element to the panorama date, moon phase, weekday, month and leap year displays. A handcrafted elaborate guilloche decoration, broken only by individual red jewels, completes the aesthetic. It boasts a power reserve of at least 100 hours.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire

Celebrating the legendary British fighter aircraft, the Spitfire design is inspired by the puristic instrument design of the Mark 11. This is carried through in the colour scheme — bronze case, olive green dial, gold-plated hands and a brown calf leather strap. The see-through sapphire glass back allows the user to view the highly embellished IWC-manufactured calibre. It has a power reserve of seven days. 

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantième Perpétuel Rétrograde

This timepiece places the perpetual calendar at the heart of the watchmaker’s most classic, timeless model, the Toric. With a precision moon phase and retrograde perpetual date, it is one of the most complex calendar timepieces. Presented in two dial finishes offset against the 42.5mm red gold case, it runs on the calibre PF333 and has a power reserve of 50 hours.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony perpetual calendar ultra-thin

This timepiece makes the most of the watchmaker’s Calibre 1120 QP, which measures a mere 4.05mm, to deliver an elegant and timeless 41mm model that’s only 8.9mm thick. It has the moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock and perpetual calendar with day of the week in a counter at 9 o’clock, date in a counter at 3 o’clock, as well as month and leap year on 48-month counters at 12 o’clock. The watch comes in a pink gold case complemented by the sunburst satin-finished blue shade of the dial and finished with a dark blue alligator leather strap. 

Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar

Limited to 100 pieces, the timepiece runs on the brand-new manufacture movement — the calibre MB 29.22 — composed solely of wheels, in contrast to most perpetual calendars that use levers. This means the watch can be adjusted via the crown in both directions. It took three years to develop, and indicates the hours, minutes, day, date, month, moonphase and leap year. The dual-time function and a 24-hour indicator makes it particularly useful when travelling. Housed in a 40mm red gold case, the watch has a power reserve of 48 hours.

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