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Keep it done up, and make it your statement piece
The double-breasted blazer. If you had asked me four years ago what I thought of this style of jacket, I probably would have responded with, “Are you a pilot? Or a wannabe Wolf of Wall Street extra?”
Then came 2017. Last year saw the double-breasted blazer gain a completely new lease of life, making it an absolute essential in any man’s wardrobe this year.
When my clients visit the stores and request this style, I normally recommend it for medium and taller builds. However, this is not a concrete rule and there is always a way around this for slighter, smaller men — one option is to go for a blazer without any padding in the shoulder. Another tip to slim it down slightly is to choose a blazer with slimmer lapels.
What’s great about the latest wave of these blazers is the ability for you to play around with colour and pattern. I would steer clear of the traditional pinstripe look, though, and instead consider a trendy autumnal check.
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Duke + Dexter
The double-breasted would previously have only been appropriate as part of a two-piece suit, but now can also be styled a plethora of ways. This means you’d be investing in a real key piece should you opt for one in a subtle colour.
A navy double-breasted blazer might be the best place to start if you are new to this style. It’s an absolutely classic staple that you can pair with white trousers — a nod to the seafaring roots this blazer originates from. Add an unbuttoned white shirt and a pair of wayfarers or aviators, and you’re good to go.
When I designed my first DB last season, I opted for a six-button design, as opposed to the traditional four-button option. This gives it a little more sophistication and formality, making it perfect for a formal affair while it still looks great when dressed down with more casual trousers.
A word of advice, though: When looking at accessories and buttons, remember less is more. So if you go for gold or silver steel buttons (which look really great and quite regal on the jacket), keep your rings, watches and bracelets to a minimum to downplay the bling (mental images of a sleazy 1980’s car salesman spring to mind here).
When it comes to silhouette and cut, consider a well-tailored slim fit, which will update this jacket for 2018. Years ago they were often a much looser and squarer box fit, which isn’t particularly flattering for anyone.
It’s important that to get the most from your blazer and make sure the shape is as flattering as possible. Choose a blazer with shoulder seems that follow your own shape. The collar should rest neatly in line with your shirt collar and the body of the jacket should tuck in around your waist to emphasise the classic V-shape.
Make sure that the bottom of the jacket lies flat against your hips; if it juts out it can create an unflattering look. If you’re looking for a slimmer fit, it may also be worth choosing one with slimmer lapels, as this produces a more streamline look overall.
As always, remember to have fun with the trend. You’ll find the double-breasted blazer a solid addition to your wardrobe — and far less stiff and uptight than you may have perceived it to be.
The writer is brand manager at Ascots & Chapels
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